How can I replace my laminate kitchen worktops without disturbing the rest of the kitchen?

Some professional carpenters and kitchen fitters can actually remove existing worktops and replace them with worktops of the same thickness (or a millimetre or two thinner). This can be easy depending upon a number of factors. If there are wall tiles that are going to be preserved then this makes the job a little harder. The silicon joint between the tiles and worktop needs to be sliced apart with a Stanley knife or similar. If the wall tiles are going to be changed then they can be removed before the old worktop is removed to make things easier when the replacement worktops are fitted.

 

U shape kitchen worktop layout, ends visible, central section between walls.

  • If the main length of worktop is being fitted between two walls, the adjacent walls are a little out of square and the worktop is more or less the same length as the gap between the two walls (allowing for small expansion gap) then the problem can be that you cannot easily slide the worktop under the tiles. Also, if you then have to join the main worktop to  the two adjacent worktops using masons mitre joints it can make it difficult to adjust the joint if the worktops are hemmed in by the walls. Removing the tiles can make things a lot easier.

 

L shaped layout with worktop ends visible

  • If the kitchen worktop layout is a simple L shape with both ends visible, then there should be no problem. The mason's mitre joint can be assembled with the worktops away from the wall, then once the joint sealant has set, the L shaped assembly can be slid into place back underneath the tiles.

Fitting replacement kitchen worktops which are thicker than the original worktops

This is very straightforward except if you want to retain your wall tiles. The new worktop might be 38mm thick and the old worktop might be 28mm thick. Obviously the 38mm worktop won’t fit into a kitchen base unit/tile gap which is made for a 28mm worktop.

There are two ways of dealing with this problem. 

Rebate the back edge of the worktop

  • Side view of rebate in back edge of kitchen worktop to fit under wall tiles.

  • Use a router to cut a small step or rebate at the back of the new worktop so that the very back 8 to 10mm of worktop is the same thickness as the original worktop. This introduces a new problem; this rebate will expose the chipboard core so the rebate must be thoroughly waterproofed using silicon sealant or other sealant otherwise delamination of the worktop will occur over time. A second barrier of silicon sealant between the worktop and wall tiles is essential.

Lower the base units

This method is much more disruptive than the first method. Disconnect all the base units from the wall, and if the leg adjustment will allow it, wind the legs down by 10mm which will lower your new worktops to the correct height. This is a rather difficult job as the base units will all be connected to each other. It would be much quicker to disconnect the base units from each other then wind down the legs, but then you have to reconnect the base units. Whichever method you choose it will take time. It can be easier and cheaper, depending on how many tiles you have and how expensive they were, to fit new wall tiles.